Bergerac
To some readers, Bergerac might mean a fictional detective. To others, it’s the home to a range of good wines. And for many of the Dordogne’s tourists, Bergerac is little more than the tiniest airport in the known world, and a town to drive past en route to your gite or campsite.
But Bergerac and the surrounding area have a lot to offer to the casual tourist. There are castles and cloisters, river walks and days spent canoeing, museums and markets, restaurants and bars, and much more besides.
But Bergerac and the surrounding area have a lot to offer to the casual tourist. There are castles and cloisters, river walks and days spent canoeing, museums and markets, restaurants and bars, and much more besides.
For the old soak in your life, a day spent visiting the region’s vineyards – and tasting the produce – is a day spent in paradise. Just make sure you’ve agreed on a designated driver before the tasting begins. The Bergerac region is home to 12 recognised appellations d’origine contrôlée, and there are hundreds of vineyards large and small to discover.
One of the highlights of a trip to Bergerac is a tour of the old town, which is filled with medieval timbered buildings and picturesque squares. The streets are filled with boutiques and wine shops, and many restaurants serve regional cuisine, concentrating on duck, walnuts, foie gras, and good cheeses.
Bergerac Office of Tourism website
One of the highlights of a trip to Bergerac is a tour of the old town, which is filled with medieval timbered buildings and picturesque squares. The streets are filled with boutiques and wine shops, and many restaurants serve regional cuisine, concentrating on duck, walnuts, foie gras, and good cheeses.
Bergerac Office of Tourism website
Brantôme
Brantôme is often referred to as the Venice of the Dordogne. But much as Birmingham (the Venice of England) has little in common with the famed Italian city, so too is Brantôme all French. A few canals, streams, or rivers, does not a Venice make, but to call a place ‘the Venice of x’ has now become acceptable shorthand for describing a town with water running through it.
It’s a shame, as Brantôme deserves to be explored on its own merits, and not as an adjunct of a celebrated city in a different country.
It’s a shame, as Brantôme deserves to be explored on its own merits, and not as an adjunct of a celebrated city in a different country.
In 769AD, Charlemagne founded the Abbey of Brantôme. The village, located on an island in the River Dronne, sprang up around the Abbey, which was a popular site for pilgrims who wished to see the relics of Saint Sicarius. But the relics did not protect the Abbey from the world at large – in the 9th century, it was attacked by Vikings and needed to be rebuilt, and during the 100 Years’ War the Abbey was destroyed and rebuilt twice.
The Abbey is Brantôme’s best-known tourist attraction, but the town itself has been voted one of the most beautiful detours in France. On Friday, which is market day, Brantôme comes to life. Stalls sell local produce, art, and souvenirs, and tourists would be well advised to buy a picnic at the market before spending the day on the River Dronne in one of the many canoes for hire.
The river bank is a popular spot for artists in the warmer months; tourists and locals alike set up their easels and capture scenes of life on the water.
Not far from Brantôme is St Jean de Côle, voted one of the most beautiful villages in France.
The Abbey is Brantôme’s best-known tourist attraction, but the town itself has been voted one of the most beautiful detours in France. On Friday, which is market day, Brantôme comes to life. Stalls sell local produce, art, and souvenirs, and tourists would be well advised to buy a picnic at the market before spending the day on the River Dronne in one of the many canoes for hire.
The river bank is a popular spot for artists in the warmer months; tourists and locals alike set up their easels and capture scenes of life on the water.
Not far from Brantôme is St Jean de Côle, voted one of the most beautiful villages in France.
Limeuil
As well as being voted one of the most beautiful villages in France, Limeuil is known for its location at the conflluence of the Dordogne and Vezere rivers. Its prime location means there has been habitation there since prehistoric times, but the current village is a well preserved medieval town featuring fortified gateways and ruins of a castle and ramparts.
From the top of the hill you can see for miles, with stunning views across the valley.
From the top of the hill you can see for miles, with stunning views across the valley.
Monpazier
The bastide town of Monpazier was founded by King Edward I in the 13th century. Probably the best-preserved bastide in the Dordogne, Monpazier is yet another village named one of the most beautiful in France.
Legend has it that during the 100 Years War, the residents of Monpazier conducted a nighttime raid on the neighbouring village of Villefranche. Finding the town quiet, they stripped it of goods and returned home. Upon arrival, it transpired that Villefranche had been so quiet because the town's residents had chosen the same night to plunder Monpazier. Embarrassed, the two villages exchanged their stolen goods.
Legend has it that during the 100 Years War, the residents of Monpazier conducted a nighttime raid on the neighbouring village of Villefranche. Finding the town quiet, they stripped it of goods and returned home. Upon arrival, it transpired that Villefranche had been so quiet because the town's residents had chosen the same night to plunder Monpazier. Embarrassed, the two villages exchanged their stolen goods.
While the greatest attraction in Monpazier is the town itself, and the 600 year old arcades, the town also plays host to an annual flower festival and summer night markets. There is a 13th century church in the centre of the village, and all of the buildings in the town - which has been declared a site of national heritage - are at least 400 years old.
St Emilion
Deep in the heart of wine country, St Emilion is well worth exploring if you find yourself in the neighbourhood this summer.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, St Emilion is a picturesque hillside town replete with churches, monasteries, and mind-boggling views. The town's role as a key wine producer in the Bordeaux regions means that oenophiles can lose hours pottering around the many vineyards and caves.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, St Emilion is a picturesque hillside town replete with churches, monasteries, and mind-boggling views. The town's role as a key wine producer in the Bordeaux regions means that oenophiles can lose hours pottering around the many vineyards and caves.
St Emilion is also a subterranean attraction of sorts, with an underground pottery museum and historic underground quarries that have been opened to the public.
For seemingly endless suggestions of things to do in St Emilion, visit the website of the local tourist office.
For seemingly endless suggestions of things to do in St Emilion, visit the website of the local tourist office.
Saint-Jean-de-Cole
I'm beginning to think that every village in the Dordogne has been voted one of the most beautiful in France. But I am not surprised - this is an exceptionally beautiful part of the world, and the local architecture reflects that. But Saint-Jean-de-Cole has another feather in its cap - as well as being one of France's most beautiful villages, it is the proud home of "the finest roofs in France". As accolades go, it is certainly unique.
The riverside town of Saint-Jean-de-Cole is home to 14th century timber-framed houses, the 15th century Chateau de la Marthonie, and a 12th century Romanesque Byzantine church. The village grew up around the 12th century church and monastery (some of which still stands), and became a point of contention between England and France for much of the Middle Ages.
The riverside town of Saint-Jean-de-Cole is home to 14th century timber-framed houses, the 15th century Chateau de la Marthonie, and a 12th century Romanesque Byzantine church. The village grew up around the 12th century church and monastery (some of which still stands), and became a point of contention between England and France for much of the Middle Ages.
But it is hard to look at 21st century Saint-Jean-de-Cole and think of war, conquest, and fortification. The modern village is a haven in the valley, surrounded by rolling hills and forest. The village square is now populated with cafes, not monks, and tourists sick of the sights can spend a day pottering around the shops and galleries, or idle away the afternoon with a riverside picnic overlooking the famous hump-backed bridge.
A highlight of the Saint-Jean-de-Cole tourist calendar is May's annual flower fair, or Floralies, scheduled to take place on 7 & 8 May 2011. The fair plays host to more than 100 exhibitors, and the displays of flowers are augmented with crafts workshops, a farmers' market, and displays of garden decorations.
A highlight of the Saint-Jean-de-Cole tourist calendar is May's annual flower fair, or Floralies, scheduled to take place on 7 & 8 May 2011. The fair plays host to more than 100 exhibitors, and the displays of flowers are augmented with crafts workshops, a farmers' market, and displays of garden decorations.
Sarlat-la-Canéda
Sarlat-la-Canéda
The medieval town of Sarlat-la-Canéda (known to the locals as Sarlat) is one of the jewels of the Perigord Noir.
Most guides to the Dordogne recommend using Sarlat as a base from which to explore the region, as it is south of Montignac and the Lascaux caves but north of Domme,Castelnaud, and Beynac. As a key town in the department there is always plenty to do, and there are more restaurants than you can shake a stick at.
Most guides to the Dordogne recommend using Sarlat as a base from which to explore the region, as it is south of Montignac and the Lascaux caves but north of Domme,Castelnaud, and Beynac. As a key town in the department there is always plenty to do, and there are more restaurants than you can shake a stick at.
But in the summer months Sarlat is heaving with tourists, and the smart traveller will be based elsewhere. From late June to early September, Sarlat is best for its market, a day spent wandering around, and the odd journey in for provisions if you happen to be in the area for a week or two.
Sarlat’s market takes place every Saturday in the city centre from 8.30 am to 6 pm. A specialty food market can be found on the Place de la Liberté from 8.30 am to 1 pm on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Sarlat’s market takes place every Saturday in the city centre from 8.30 am to 6 pm. A specialty food market can be found on the Place de la Liberté from 8.30 am to 1 pm on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
