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Château de Beynac

Château de Beynac

The 12th century Château de Beynac is an imposing building on the banks of the Dordogne, a stark defensive fortress that oozes strength. Built on a sheer cliff face, Beynac has an unassailable air, and while the castle changed hands throughout history, it was more frequently lost to betrayal and chicanery than to outright assault.
Over the years, the Château de Beynac was added to by successive generations of the barons of Beynac. The 12th century keep is attached to the 12th century living quarters, which were themselves modified across the 16th and 17th centuries. The fine 17th century apartments include painted ceilings and ornate woodwork. On the other side of the courtyard can be found a 14th century residence and a 15th century frescoed oratory.

In 1962, the castle was bought by a private citizen who began a serious restoration project. Beynac is now open to visitors, who come to view both the medieval fortress and the tapestries and furniture it contains.

You might recognise Beynac as the backdrop from Luc Besson’s 1999 film Joan of Arc.

For visitor information, click on this link.

Château de Biron

Château de Biron is one of those castles that has been architecturally pockmarked by its history. The combination of a 12th century keep and late 15th century living quarters done out in a combination of Gothic and Italian Renaissance styles takes some imagining, but somehow works aesthetically.
Built in the 12th century and extended over the generations, the château de Biron was fought over throughout the years. The Catholics and Cathars battled over Biron in the 13th century; the castle was then the scene of much conflict during the Hundred Years War. In one such battle, Biron was badly damaged in a fire. After a brief spell of peace, Biron was again the centre of fighting during the Wars of Religion. One descendant turned against the French King, and the Gontaut-Biron family lost its ancestral seat.

Biron was abandoned until the 18th century, when the Gontaut-Birons were once again in the King’s good graces.

For visitor information, click on this link.

Château de Bourdeilles

The Château de Bourdeilles, near Brantôme, is best describe as two castles sharing the same space. The oldest buildings on the site are a series of medieval fortifications that were built between the 12th and 14th centuries; these comprise the first castle. The other is an ornately-decorated 15th century Renaissance palace, replete with carvings and period artwork.
Visitors can climb the medieval keep for stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Guided tours of the castles last an hour.

For the official website, which is in French and doesn’t appear to have been updated since 2010, click on this link. However, this website (in English) appears to have better tourist information.

Château de Castelnaud-la-Chapelle

Just down the river from the Château de Beynac stands the castle-cum-fortress that is Château de Castelnaud-la-Chapelle. A 13th century castle that proved to be a strategic stronghold in the Hundred Years' War, Castelnaud is another one of those Dordogne châteaux to have changed hands with the centuries, expanding as each successive generation of occupants left their architectural mark.
Despite its importance in the Middle Ages, Castelnaud was too fortress-like for occupation as the ruling classes became accustomed to creature comforts, and by the Middle Ages the castle had fallen to ruin. But a 20th century restoration project saved the site, which has been open to the public since 1985.

Castelnaud also plays host to a museum of medieval weaponry and warfare, which my museum-hating daughter says is her favourite museum in the world. The castle is filled with all manner of weaponry, from the familiar to the downright bizarre. Even the courtyards are home to a collection of cannons and trebuchets, some of which are so big that they can be seen for miles across the valley.

Castelnaud chateau was first mentioned in the 13th century, and had a turbulent history over the years, switching sides regularly in the 100 Years’ War. Over the years the various conquers added to the castle, and it is now a mix of historical styles, each with its own tale to tell.

But the main reason for visiting is the treasure trove of medieval weaponry found within the castle walls. There are multi-barreled cannons designed by Leonardo da Vinci, an impressive collection of maces and morning stars, all manner of siege machines, and much more besides. It is easy to spend a day wandering through the castle and its grounds, pouring over weapons you never knew existed, and being distracted by the stunning panoramic views across the Dordogne valley from its many balconies.

If you do visit, wear sensible shoes. There are many narrow and uneven stone staircases, and flip flops, platforms, or high heels can be treacherous.

For the official castle website, click on this link.

Château de Commarque

The Château de Commarque lies in the hills between Sarlat and Les Eyzies, a vantage point that has proved useful since pre-historic times, when the caves beneath what is now the castle were occupied by early man. The precise origins of the castle are unknown, but it is thought that a wooden tower was built upon the site in the late 11th or 12th century, to defend against the nearby Beynac family.
The Beynacs took the site in 1255, and began building the stone fortress, parts of which survive to this day. By the mid-14th century, Commarque had eclipsed the Beynacs’ eponymous chateau.

During the early years of the Hundred Years’ War, Commarque was expanded further still. But the British captured the chateau in 1406. It was the beginning of the end for the castle, and by the 16th century resident families had begun leaving Commarque. By the 18th century, Commarque had been abandoned and was falling to ruin, but a 20th century restoration project has turned Commarque into a site of local interest.

For information on opening hours, ticket prices, and the like, click on this link.

Château de Hautefort

The first known occupant of the Château de Hautefort moved in around the year 1000, Guy de Lastours, although by the 12th cetury the castle was in the hands of the De Born family. The medieval fortress, very little of which remains, was largely unaltered until the 15th century. As fashions changed, so did the Château de Hautefort, which was transformed by its occupants over the years. By the 17th century, the once intimidating fortress had become a palace dedicated to leisure pursuits, and featured the architectural flourishes to match.
But as it rose, so did it fall, and by 1925 the castle was in such a state of neglect that it was believed to be beyond saving.  But a concerted restoration effort that began in 1929 and lasted more than fifty years has seen the castle and grounds returned to an approximation of their former glories.

Hautefort is famed for its gardens, which were first developed in the 17th century, before being extensively landscaped by the Count of Choulot in the late 19th century. The Count’s work was very much of his era, and features elaborate topiary, geometric flower planting, and an informal Italian garden.

For the official castle website, click on this link.

Château de Losse

The summer season is drawing to a close, and the campsites are beginning to empty, meaning it is the perfect time to visit all of those tourist sites that are uncomfortably crowded during the high season. One such site is the Château de Losse and its famous gardens.
The chateau was built by the Losse family, who arrived in the Perigord from Flanders in the 11th century. As with all such buildings, the castle was a work in progress for many centuries, with successive generations each making additions. Tyhe last addition was the Hall, built in 1576 by Jean II Marquess of Losse, a servant of the de Medici family and tutor to Henri IV, who ended his life as General governor of Limousin and Guyenne.

The gardens were listed as a historical site in 1932, and have been under preservation orders ever since. Visitors can walk along the dried moat bed, tour the terraced gardens, or just sniff around the potager.

For the official website, click on this link.

Château des Milandes

Now best known for being the former home of singer Josephine Baker the Château des Milandes was built in the late 15th century as a manor house, but used as a home by the lords of Caumont, the local ruling family, who preferred its creature comforts to those on offer in the ancestral home of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle.
Various generations of Caumonts lived in Milandes until the French Revolution, when the castle was abandoned. In the 19th century, the Château des Milandes suffered first neglect, then serious fire damage, before it was bought and restored by local entrepreneur Charles Claverie in the early 20th century. Josphine Baker bought Milandes in 1947 and lived there until she was forced out by bankruptcy in 1968, since which time it has been in private hands.

For the official website, click on this link.

Château de Monbazillac

Where Commarque was close to ruin before it was saved by conservation efforts in the late 2th century, the Château de Monbazillac is a very different prospect indeed, more akin to the châteaux of the Loire than a medieval fortress.
While some medieval fortifications remain, Monbazillac is now famed for its Renaissance flourishes, collection of antique furniture and porcelains, and cellars heaving with bottles of the eponymous dessert wine (which also works beautifully when served with foie gras). Historians might find the Protestant Room to be of interest; it is filled with artefacts from the Religous Wars.

Tours end with a complimentary tasting of the chateau’s famous wines.

For information on opening hours, click on this link.

Montaigne's Tower

It is something of a misnomer to include Montaigne’s tower in a series on castles, but it forms part of the larger Château de Montaigne, and is a building of unique literary interest.
In 1477, the 14th century fortified château was acquired by the Eyquem family, ancestors of the essayist Michel de Montaigne. Michel grew up at the château, which he later inherited. In 1571, Michel retired from public life and took up residence in the Château de Montaigne tower, which he called his citadel. Over the space of 20 years, until his death in 1592, Michel de Montaigne wrote some of his best-known essays.

The château  was destroyed by fire in 1885, and has since been fully restored.

There is no official website for the tower, but you can learn more about Michel de Montaigne through Wikipedia.

Château de Pécany

One of the least well-known of the Dordogne’s châteaux, the Château de Pécany was built by the de Courssou family in the late 18th century. It is believed that the current structure sits atop an earlier site, most likely from the 16th century.

As a modern château, Pécany was built without any defensive fortification and is of little historical interest. Architecturally, the Château de Pécany is a display of wealth, not power. What makes Pécany of interest is in its grounds. Oenophiles might recognise the Château de Pécany as being the home of Pécany wine, which was popular in the mid-2oth century.

The château still produces wine, but I have not been able to find a direct sales website. Unfortunately, I have been unable to find any video of Château de Pécany. It does not appear to be open to visitors, and lacks an official website.

Château de Puymartin

Once vital to the region’s interests in both the Hundred Years’ and Religious Wars, the Château de Puymartin fell into decay before being saved in the 19th century by a nobleman,  the marquis of Carbonnier de Marzac, who rebuilt the castle in the neo-gothic style that was so fashionable at the time.

Puymartin was first built in the 13th century, and soon after became a site strategic importance in the Hundred Years’ War The English took the castle in 1357, and the subsequent centuries saw Puymartin changing hands on a regular basis: first between the English and the French, then, in the 16th century, between the Protestants and the Catholics.
Years of being fought over had done their damage, and by the 18th century the Château de Puymartin was falling to ruin.

There is a strong undercurrent of Greek stories and legends in the castle’s interior design, which contains a number of tapestries and artworks of a mythological bent.

For the official website, which is in French, click on this link.
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Click on the flag to visit the French website.
Cliquez sur le drapeau pour visiter le site web français.
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Click on the flag to visit the German website.
Klicken Sie auf die Flagge, die deutsche Website zu besuchen.