Perigord mushrooms, from forest to table
Food of the Perigord
“Good food and wine, this is paradise on earth,” France’s much loved king, Henri IV, of the Perigord region he knew so well.
And indeed, the Dordogne is the supplier of much of France’s finest produce: wines, cèpes, truffles, and duck and goose, which yield many specialities from foie gras and truffles to the “Demoiselle” (the whole bird grilled over a wood fire).
Above all, this is healthy food, although with all the fat and meat and wine it may not sound like it. The Perigord is the home of the ‘French exception,’ the curious medical fact that despite the local diet, the locals have a remarkably low level of heart problems. The answer, it seems, is that they use duck fat rather than butter or olive oil, and the red wine also helps. So, probably, does the outdoor life style and the passion for sports.
It may be hard to believe, but there was a time when the breast of duck was not greatly valued in the Perigord. The fattened liver was the valuable item, along with the thighs which could be turned into confit de canard. These days, the magret or breast of duck is one of the treasures of Perigord cuisine.
There are few better ways to eat in Perigord than to buy the the ingredients for a picnic at one of the local market. A fresh warm baguette of French bread, some pate and saucisson and cheese and tomatoes and fruit makes a feast. For an extra pleasure, if anywhere near the town of Le Buisson de Caneda, it is worth making a detour to the renowned shop called Arvouet for the extraordinary duck sausage (saucisson de canard), made only of duck with almost no fat and quite delicious. From the centre of Le Buisson, follow the road sign toward Siorac and St Cyprien, go past the tennis court and after 200 yards on the right you’ll find Arvoet, set back from the road with a small parking area in front. They also sell excellent pate and good local wines. They can also be found in the market at Lalinde. Arvouet, tel 0553.220037.
Above all, this is healthy food, although with all the fat and meat and wine it may not sound like it. The Perigord is the home of the ‘French exception,’ the curious medical fact that despite the local diet, the locals have a remarkably low level of heart problems. The answer, it seems, is that they use duck fat rather than butter or olive oil, and the red wine also helps. So, probably, does the outdoor life style and the passion for sports.
It may be hard to believe, but there was a time when the breast of duck was not greatly valued in the Perigord. The fattened liver was the valuable item, along with the thighs which could be turned into confit de canard. These days, the magret or breast of duck is one of the treasures of Perigord cuisine.
There are few better ways to eat in Perigord than to buy the the ingredients for a picnic at one of the local market. A fresh warm baguette of French bread, some pate and saucisson and cheese and tomatoes and fruit makes a feast. For an extra pleasure, if anywhere near the town of Le Buisson de Caneda, it is worth making a detour to the renowned shop called Arvouet for the extraordinary duck sausage (saucisson de canard), made only of duck with almost no fat and quite delicious. From the centre of Le Buisson, follow the road sign toward Siorac and St Cyprien, go past the tennis court and after 200 yards on the right you’ll find Arvoet, set back from the road with a small parking area in front. They also sell excellent pate and good local wines. They can also be found in the market at Lalinde. Arvouet, tel 0553.220037.
