It is not easy to find from the map offered by the Maison de Vin, but worth the effort. Take the D14 road from Bergerac to Ste Foy la Grande and take a left on the D4 to Saussignac, and after 400 metres there is a sign on the left for Chateau Haut Garrigue.
They have a spectacular view over the Dordogne valley, and after visiting the vineyards and hearing Sean explain the bio-organic methods they use to keep the terroir healthy, we sat in the open air to taste their various wines.
I was accompanied by my friend and neighbour Raymond, a retired officer of gendarmes and a great lover of wine. We came away with three cases, one of their wines called Sincerite, all Sauvignon Blanc, for me, and a case each of their 2007 Haut Garrigue reds which they are re-naming Resonance.
A little earlier, I visited my old friend Francis-Xavier at Chateau de Tiregand, accompanied by my new friend Klaus Einwanger, who has been taking the photos for the forthcoming Bruno cookbook. (You can find examples of his prize-winning work on www.foodfactory.de).
In the cellars, we tasted the 2011, which is about to go into barrels and which promises to be a splendid wine. And he kindly gave me a rare bottle of the 2001 which I served at a small dinner for Raymond and the baron.
We began with smoked trout from the Isle of Mull in Scotland, which we drank with a bottle of Monthuys champagne. With the Tiregand I prepared one of my favourite dishes, aiguilettes de canard au miel et aux grains de moutarde, to which I added a splash of Armagnac, and accompanied it with potatoes from the garden.
The wine was magnificent, smooth and gentle at first and then its strength slowly became more apparent. We drank it in something close to reverence.