Bruno’s Restaurants – Dining in the Perigord

Following a number of requests for a Perigord restaurant database, we have created this page of cafes and restaurants mentioned and reviewed on Bruno’s Blog. The italicised text below has been copied across from the original blog posts. More restaurant reviews and recommendations will appear here as they are discovered and written about.

Restaurant Reviews

And what dough! Any fan of Italian pizza would be thrilled by the thin blistered crust, with the right amount of bite and yeasty tang. It’s both chewy and crispy, with the occasional blackened spots only adding to the flavour.

The toppings are all classic and well-sourced – a recent pizza with a topping of fresh tomatoes was full of flavour, despite the season. No bright red pieces of cotton wool here, of that you can be sure.

A meal at Le Vieux Logis, however, is always memorable. The Menu de Marche is a reasonably-priced five-course surprise menu that makes the most of local produce. Last night we were treated to a mini picnic (astroturf trays with mini gingham rugs for plates) of amuses-bouches; a brandade of cod; a trio of tomatoes; a trio of rabbit and cepes; hibiscus jelly with vanilla mousse; a walnut and chocolate millefeuille with milk chocolate sorbet; and a chocolate cappuccino served with an apricot milk crisp.

The quality of the food is  matched by the setting, especially if the weather is on your side and you can sit out on the terrace under the trees.

Michelin Guide restaurant search engine

Get to know this little man: Bib Gourmand. Bib, as he is known, is worth his weight in 29 euro-coins.

Why 29€? Because that is the upper limit for a prix-fixe menu as set by the Michelin inspectors for a Bib-class recommendation. Bib meals are not defined by elegant lighting and 46 forks. Instead, they highlight good quality food – usually regional – at a maximum price of 29€ per head (35€ in Paris).

There are 62 Bib Gourmand restaurants within 120 miles of Sarlat-la-Canéda, capital of the Périgord noir. Locals have always known they can eat well here, but now the Michelin inspectors have opened up that wealth of local knowledge to the more casual visitor. Be sure to take advantage.

You can search for Bib Gourmand restaurants in any country Michelin covers by using the search feature on their website. It is possible to restrict your search to Bib Gourmand restaurants, pleasing both tastebuds and wallet in one fell swoop. The hardest bit is deciding which one to visit first…

Dordogne restaurant recommendations (with links)

The Bruno website is getting queries about restaurants in Perigord from readers planning to visit the region. So here are my favourites, with suggestions in every price range. I have added links where available, but many of these restaurants are too small (or too local) to advertise on the web.

The best restaurant in the area (my daughter has insisted I add ‘the world’) is Le Vieux Logis in Tremolat. It’s where I take my wife on birthdays.

In La Roque-Gageac, I am torn between la Plume d’Oie and La Belle Etoile, but to dine on the Etoile’s terrace is a delight.

In terms of choice, the best towns are Bergerac, Sarlat and Les Eyzies.

Bergerac

Sarlat

Les Eyzies

You might have heard of Les Eyzies’ Le Centenaire, which used to be a Michelin-starred wonder but no longer. The locals all lunch at the restaurant of Laugerie-Basse, nestled into the cliffs. This is plain food, well cooked, and we all like the cosy atmosphere in winter and the terrace in summer.

In le Bugue, honest French fare in Le Cygne and slightly more ambitious food at L’Abreuvoir. The locals lunch at Oscar’s and the tourists flock to the open-air terrace and the very good pizzas at La Pergola. Just outside Le Bugue on the road to Limeuil is Le Parc, at a lovely spot by a small lake. I am not a fan of the ‘Vietnamese’ place called Le Pha, but its location on the river is pretty. There is a charming wine bar whose name I’ve never known where the main street, Rue de Paris, runs into the square of the Mairie. The croissants at Patisserie Cauet are excellent.

In Limeuil, at the top of the hill, is a charming place called Garden Party.

In Paunat, Chez Julien, just behind the church.

There is an enchanting shaded terrace in the shadow of an ancient church at la Vieille Auberge up the hill from Le Bugue in Audrix.

Between Le Bugue and Les Eyzies is Campagne, home to a good place called Couleurs which even manages to overcome my distaste for food served on slices of slate rather than old-fashioned plates.

In Montignac, I like dining in the garden at La Roseraie.