Bruno, Chief of Police
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Panning for gold in the Vezere River

The Vezere River, one of the many that winds its way through the Perigord, and home to the fictional town of St Denis, has long been a focal point for the orpailleurs of south-west France. For hundreds of years, locals panned the river bed for small nuggets of gold - no rushes here - until the practice all but died out in the 18th century. It was revived in the 1970s, and has since been a small but vital part of the region's tourist trade.

The town of Jumilhac, home to the chateau de Jumilhac, offers twice-weekly lessons in gold-panning during the summer months (just ask at the local tourist office). The Jumilhac seam, discovered in the 1st century AD, still yields approximately two tonnes of gold each year. In Beaulieu-sur-Dordgone, in the Limousin, half-day courses in gold panning are also offered. At the very least, you are apparently guaranteed to leave with some gold dust.

Hot air ballooning in the Dordogne Valley

One of the best lazy activities around - although more one-off experience than daily hobby - is a day (or hour, or evening) spent floating around in a hot air balloon. I've only been ballooning once, but it was an experience I'll never forget.

These days, anyone who calls himself a frequent flier will have seen aerial view after aerial view. But while it's easy to become a bit jaded, and to cease to notice the moment when the doll-sized cars below turn into dots and then disappear, it is impossible to be jaded in a balloon.

The roar of the flame keeping you afloat, coupled with the languid pace of the balloon as it bobs along, makes ballooning feel magical. There's a childish sense of wonder to the fact that you're up in the air and exposed to the elements. Far from the hermetically-sealed tube of an aeroplane, you can feel shifts in the breeze and the warmth of the sun as you bob gently across the countryside.

The sense of drama and occasion in the clip below is brilliant. Shame whoever put it together spent more time working on intertitles than they did showing off aerial footage...
I've not actually been ballooning over the Dordogne - my hot-air aerial adventure took place in the Loire Valley, many years ago - so the links below are not personal recommendations. But if you are interested in taking to the skies, here are links to companies that offer hot air ballooning locally:
  • AngloInfo.com's directory of Dordogne Balloons, Paragliding, and Flying Clubs
  • Best of Perigord.com's local ballooning page

Finding peace in the Jardins du Manoir d'Eyrignac

The lost paradise of the Jardins du Manoir d’Eyrignac en Dordogne is one of the most tranquil spots in the region, if you can find a quiet moment in which to visit.
After 500 years in the hands of the same family, in the 1960s Eyrignac Manor was bought by  Giles Sermadiras de Cuzols de Lile, who set about adding to the already renowned 18th century gardens. Unfortunately, by then only the pavilion, fountains, and basins were all that remained of the original garden. Much of what visitors see today has been developed over the pat fifty years with a view to restoring the ornamental gardens to their original glory.

According to the French Ministry of Culture, the Jardins du Manoir d’Eyrignac are one of the Notable Gardens of France.

Visitor information can be found on the official website (in English).

Segwaying through vineyards

Earlier this week, my daughter - who should probably get her internet addition seen to - sent me this bizarre video of a wine tasting.

If you think you know wine tastings, believe me - you don't know this one. The video, of a wine tasting session at Bergerac's Vignerons Perigourdins, features the strange combination of alcohol and Segway scooters.

If you've ever fancied having a go on one of these peculiar machines, I suppose doing it in the sunshine surroundedby vines is as good a way as any...

Skip through the first minute or so, which just involves guests larking about in a minivan. The real action starts once they're at the vineyard and on the Segways.

Touring the L'Abbaye de Cadouin

L’Abbaye de Cadouin, or Cadouin Abbey, is of the most celebrated religious buildings in the Dordogne. A jewel of the Perigord, the Abbey was built in the early 12th century, and was famed throughout Europe as one of the pilgrimage sites to own a piece of the shroud said to have been wrapped around Jesus in the tomb.

Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, L’Abbaye de Cadouin’s church and cloisters are open to visitors year-round (except January).

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Click on the flag to visit the French website.
Cliquez sur le drapeau pour visiter le site web français.
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Click on the flag to visit the German website.
Klicken Sie auf die Flagge, die deutsche Website zu besuchen.